KIZARMIS PATLICAN Fried eggplant with green pepper and tomato sauce To serve 6 as a first course 2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 cups olive oil, 4 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped, 2 large garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 1 teaspoon plus 1/4 cup salt, medium-sized eggplant (about 1 pound), 2 medium-sized green peppers, seeded, deribbed and cut lengthwise into quarters In a heavy 8- to l0-inch skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the tomatoes, garlic and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Mashing and stirring frequently, cook the tomatoes briskly until almost all their liquid evaporates and they become a thick, somewhat smooth puree. Set aside off the heat. With a large, sharp knife, peel the eggplant and cut off the stem end. Cut the eggplant lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Then one at a time lay each slice flat and cut lengthwise strips at 1/2-inch intervals starting at the wide end and cutting to within about 2 inches of the narrow end. The slices should now look like fans. Combine 1 quart of water and the remaining 1/4 cup of salt in a shallow bowl or baking dish, and add the eggplant sections. Turn them about to coat them evenly with the brine, and let them soak at room temperature for about 10 minutes to rid them of any bitterness. In a heavy 12-inch skillet, heat the remaining 1 1/2 cups of oil over high heat until a light haze forms above it. Pat the eggplant completely dry with paper towels. Regulating the heat so the eggplant colors evenly without burning, fry it 3 or 4 slices at a time for about 5 minutes on each side, or until it is lightly browned and shows no resistance when pierced with the tines of a fork. Transfer the eggplant to paper towels and fry the remaining slices. Add the green peppers, skin side up, to the oil remaining in the skillet, adding more oil if necessary. Cook the peppers over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, turning them over with tongs. When they are soft but still somewhat firm to the touch, drain them on paper towels. Peel off the skins with a small, sharp knife. Mound the eggplant slices in the center ofa serving platter and pour the tomato sauce over them. Fold the peppers in halflengthwise and arrange them attractively around the eggplant. Serve at room temperature. HUNKAR BEGENDI Roasted eggplant puree To make about 2 1/2 Cups 4 small (1/2 pound) eggplants or 2 medium-sized (1 pound) eggplants, 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour, 1/3 cup milk, 1/4 cup freshly grated kashar cheese, 1/2 teaspoon salt, freshly ground black pepper First, roast the eggplants in the following fashion: Prick each one in 3 or 4 places with the tines of a long-handled fork. Then impale them, one at a time, on the tines of the fork and turn them over a gas flame until the skin chars and begins to crack. (If you have an electric stove, pierce the eggplants, place them on a large baking sheet and broil them 4 inches from the heat for about 20 minutes, turning them so that they char on all sides.) When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, peel them, cutting away any badly charred spots on the surface. Cut the eggplants in halflengthwise and chop them finely. Then mash the pulp to a smooth purCe with the back of a spoon or with a mortar and pestle. In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, heat the tablespoon of butter over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, stir in the flour and when it is completely absorbed pour in the milk all at once. Stirring vigorously with a whisk, cook over high heat until the mixture comes to a boil and thickens heavily. Beat in the pur~ed eggplant, reduce the heat to low, and, stirring occasionally, simmer for 5 minutes. Off the heat add the cheese, salt and a few grindings of pepper. Beat vigorously until the mixture is thick enough to hold its shape almost solidly in the spoon. Taste for seasoning and serve at once. Hunkar Begendi traditionally accompanies roast or braised veal or lamb. IMAM BAYILDI Braised eggplant with tomatoes and onions To serve 6 3 medium-sized eggplants (about 1 pound each), as long and narrow as possible, 4 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons salt, 6 medium-sized onions, peeled, sliced 1/8 inch thick and separated into rings, 5 medium-sized fresh, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped, 1/2 cup olive oil, 6 large garlic cloves, peeled, 1 cup water, 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley, preferably flat-leaf parsley With a sharp knife, cut off the stem and peel each eggplant lengthwise, leaving 4 evenly spaced i-inch-wide strips of peel intact. Slicing between the strips, cut each one in half. Cut side up, make three or four 4-inch-long lengthwise slashes through the thickest part of each half, spacing the slashes about 1 inch apart. Sprinkle the eggplants with 1 tablespoon of the salt and arrange them in two or three layers in a large flat bowl or pan. Pour in enough cold water to cover them by 1 inch, weight with a heavy casserole, and let the eggplants rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, drop the onion rings into a large colander set in a deep plate. Sprinkle the onions with 3 tablespoons of the salt, turning them about with a spoon to coat them evenly. Let stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, then rinse the onions under warm running water and squeeze them gently but completely dry. Place them in a bowl, add the tomatoes and the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt and toss together thoroughly. Pour 2 tablespoons of the oil into a heavy casserole large enough to hold the eggplants in one layer. Drain the eggplants, rinse them under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange the eggplants cut side up in the casserole. Force as much of the onion-tomato mixture as possible into the slashes and spread the rest on top. Place a garlic clove on each eggplant half, and sprinkle them with the remaining G tablespoons of oil. Pour in the cup of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for I hour and 15 minutes, or until the eggplants are tender. Cool in the casserole to room temperature. To serve, arrange the eggplants on a large platter or individual serving plates, spoon the cooking juices around them and sprinkle with parsley. ZEYTINYAGLI PIRASA Braised leeks with rice To serve 4 to 6 2 pounds firm, fresh leeks, each approximately 1 1/2 inches in diameter, 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 cup fiflely chopped onions, 1 teaspoon flour,1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon sugar, 1 1/2 cups water, 3 tablespoons uncooked long- or medium-grain white rice, 2 lemons, each cut lengthwise into 6 or 8 wedges With a sharp knife, cut the roots from the leeks. Strip away any withered leaves and cut off and discard all but about 2 inches of the green tops. Then wash the leeks under cold running water, spreading the leaves apart to rid them of sand. Slice the leeks crosswise into 1-inch lengths, and set aside. In a heavy 3- to 4-quart casserole, heat the oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it. Add the onions and, stirring frequently, cook for 5 minutes, or until they are limp and transparent but not brown. Stir in the flour, salt and sugar, cook for a minute or so, then add the water and raise the heat to high. Stirring constantly, cook briskly until the mixture comes to a boil and thickens lightly. Add the rice and the leeks, turning them about with the spoon to coat them evenly with sauce. Reduce the heat to low, cover tightly and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the leeks and rice are tender but still intact. Taste for seasoning. Cool to room temperature and serve directly from the casserole, accompanied by the lemon wedges. TERBIYELI KEREVIZ Poached celery root with lemon and egg sauce To serve 4 to 6 2 1/2 pounds celery root (celeriac), 1 bunch of parsley, preferably flatleaf parsley, tied tightly together with cord, 1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 cups water, 1 teaspoon flour dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water, 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, preferably flat-leaf parsley With a small, sharp knife, peel the celery roots and cut them crosswise into 1/2 inch-wide slices. Drop the slices into a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan and add the bunch of parsley, 1/4 cup of lemon juice, salt and water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer covered for about 20 minutes, or until the celery root is tender but still slightly resistant to the point of a small, sharp knife. Remove and discard the bunch of parsley. With a slotted spoon, transfer the celery root to a heated serving bowl, and cover with foil to keep it warm. With a whisk or a large spoon, stir the flour and water mixture into the liquid remaining in the pan. Still stirring, cook briskly over high heat until the liquid comes to a boil, and thickens lightly. Combine the beaten egg with the remaining 2 teaspoons of lemon juice in a small bowl. Beat in about 1/4 cup of the simmering sauce and pour it into the saucepan, stirring constantly. Simmer for a moment and taste for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the celery root, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve at once.