"Reading" Tea Leaves

Most of us are familiar with three basic kinds of teas. These are green teas, oolong teas, and black teas. Incidentally, herbal teas are not teas at all, but rather herbal infusions. All true teas come from the same plant, Camellia sinensis.

While green, oolong, and black teas all come from a single plant, all teas are not created equal. There are many variables that contribute to the character of each tea that we ultimately enjoy in our cups. These variables include the soil and climate where the teas are grown, the stage of plant development when the leaves are plucked, and how the teas are handled and processed subsequent to picking. To examine all of these factors in depth would be a monumental task that goes well beyond the scope of this article. As a result, we will try to define the major differences between our three categories of tea in concise terms.

Green teas are the least processed teas. After picking, the teas are quickly steamed, stopping the natural fermentation or oxidation which takes place once the leaves are removed from the plant. The leaves are then rolled and either sun-dried or pan fired in large woks. This minimal processing causes these teas to have their signature fresh or "grassy" flavors.

Black teas, on the other hand, are fully processed. Once plucked, the teas are allowed to wither and the leaves become limp. The leaves are then rolled and allowed to ferment before they are dried to stop the process. The fermentation of black teas accounts for stronger, more developed flavors and the reddish color of their liquors. These teas are called black due to the dark hue of the processed leaves, but in China these teas are known as red teas because of the color of the cup.

Oolong teas are partially fermented teas, and have taste and appearance characteristics of both green and black teas. These teas are allowed to begin oxidizing but the process is stopped before full fermentation is achieved. Generally speaking, Formosa Oolongs from Taiwan are allowed to ferment more than their cousins in mainland China.

All three categories of tea exhibit unique and delicious taste characteristics, and preference is largely the only criteria for deciding which teas are "best." Also, within each category there are thousands of teas grown in different parts of the world that are prepared using a variety of techniques. This is part of the charm of experimenting with teas. The opportunities to discover and taste new teas are practically endless.